“Be Brave. Take Risks. Nothing Can Substitute Experience” – Paulo Coelho
Getting There:
Airport: Cancun International Airport receives most of its international visitors in Terminal 2. After disembarking- follow the well marked route to passport control, collect your luggage and airport exit.
The Puerto Juarez ferry docks are the transfer point to Isla Mujeres. You can reach the docks from the airport by:
- Pre- Booked Transportation- there are numerous companies offering shuttle services around the Cancun area. Prices vary, but with large groups, lots of luggage, desire for less hassle, no waiting, direct transfer, etc can make hiring a private car service reasonable. To find your specific shuttle/ transportation- look for someone holding a placard with your name upon exit from the airport. If you are unable to locate your shuttle- ask the airport assistance who are familiar with almost all the companies- and can help you make connection. Many car services have the added benefit of providing cold water (a delight after flying and adjusting to the humidity) and can make stops at grocery stores, etc.
- ADO Airport Bus- (large sign in RED)- this bus can take you to downtown Cancun for approximately 5$/person. The bus runs on the half hour. Once at the downtown terminal, a taxi can be hired for approximately 5$ to the ferry terminal. Alternatively, an even cheaper method would be to take Bus Ruta 13 which goes to the Puerto Juarez dock.
Puerto Juarez- home to Gran Puerto Cancun (Ultramar) Ferry
Photo By: Kim Meehan
Ultramar is the ferry that links the mainland to Isla Mujeres. Tickets can be purchased online or at the ferry window. After purchasing a ticket, you will need to clear security. All luggage must be placed on the conveyer belt. Once through security, you will find a spacious waiting area (outside, covered). Luggage must be stored at the rear of the boat. Once boarding begins, those with luggage should proceed to the far end of the boat where a porter will collect your luggage. Please remember to tip. You can then walk to the passenger boarding ramps and enter the boat. There is an upper level. Seats are available outside or in the airconditioned interior. Snacks are available at the snackbar. Occasionally onboard entertainment is available. The ferry lasts approximately 15 minutes.
The first crossing TO Isla Mujeres is at 5:00 AM. Ferries run every half hour until 9:30 pm, then every hour until 11:30 pm (9:30, 10:30 and 11:30).
The first crossing FROM Isla Mujeres TO Cancun is at 5:30 AM. Ferries run every half hour until 9:30 pm and then every hour until 12:00 AM (10:00 pm, 11:00 pm, 12:00 am).
You can check the latest schedules, fares, and purchases through the Ultramar Website: https://www.ultramarferry.com/en/routes-and-departures
Arriving on Isla Mujeres
Expect the ferry terminal to be congested with arriving and pending departure traffic. So take a breath and be patient. The ferry drops off on the main street. Many people opt to walk or rent a golf cart for transportation. Bike porters are available to move your luggage and guide you to your hotel. The porter will even make arrangements to return for your departure and move your luggage back to the ferry.
Where to Stay
There are lots of accommodation offerings- hotel rooms, air bnb, etc. Prices decrease further away from the beach, which is a very short walk if you’re staying in the main town.
Is the hotel we chose. It is about 3-4 blocks from the ferry/main street, and a 10-15 min walk to North beach. The hotel is small. The rooms are located on floors 2+. Each room had a private bath and shower. The rooms are basic with beds, dresser, fans, tv. Our rooms did not have any view- but we were only on the island for one night. There are local cafes nearby or you can enjoy the many restaurants on main street. Luggage can be stored on the day of your check out. Again- basic, good price, great location. You can book on all the major booking sites: Trip Advisor, Booking.com, etc.
North Beach (Playa Norte):
North Beach is the primary beach used for those staying in town. The beach is nice, expect crowds, and lots of boat traffic. It’s a pretty beach with all of the necessary amenities.
Photos By: Kim Meehan
Main Street:
Isla Mujeres has lots of atmosphere. There are restaurants, cafes, art shops, crafts, etc. Take the time to explore some of the streets off the main street- keep in mind many of these don’t have street signs so make sure you are making a cognitive map.
Whale Sharks
One of the most popular activities is to go snorkeling with the whale sharks (no scuba diving offered). It is imperative that you choose an outfit that follows the laws and supports the protection of these magnificent animals.
Courtesy of Texas Saltwater Fishing Magazine
Whale sharks, scientifically Rhincodon typus (Order: Orectolobiformes; Family: Rhincodontidae; Genus: Rhincodon; Species: typus), are the largest living fish (and sharks) on the planet. Their back and sides are checkerboarded with light spots and transverse bars; their heads are broad, flat, and short-snouted, their mouth near the latter’s tip; and their sides have three ridges. Their coloration is gray/blue/brown above, upper surface white spots wedged among pale vertical and horizontal stripes, the belly white. 20 filtering pads in the mouth filter 20,723 grams of plankton per day (just for a single whale shark on average). Maxing at 20 meters long and 42 tons (as far as is known), whale sharks live as long as eight decades.
Top left, top right, and bottom left: respectively Whale sharks, Basking sharks, and Megamouth sharks, the three “filter feeder” shark species, that, unlike Great Whites, Bull sharks, Blues, and more, gulp microorganisms as they swim as opposed to hunting, biting, chomping, and shredding prey; bottom right: Manta ray, which uses a similar filtration system – a connection made more humorous by rays and sharks being distant relatives –courtesy of Deep Sea News
Spanning all tropical and warm temperate seas bar the Mediterranean, whale sharks are found in Mexico, Brazil, Chile, and beyond. They are pelagic, prone to swimming in open seas (antithetical to benthic species, which live on or near the ocean floor). Whale sharks swim to 1928 meters, or 6325.5 feet, deep.
Courtesy of World Atlas
Whale sharks, as many other sharks, are at risk of being fished, for their meat is valuable in select markets. Laws have been implemented in places such as the India and the Phillipines to combat this, but illegal and legal fishing problems for the species persist.
The Maya of Isla Mujeres and the rest of the Yucatan coast must’ve believed whale sharks were divinely significant. A centuries-old ceramic figure of a female shaman, originally seen as a depiction of a jaguar, is now thought to have been based on whale shark anatomy, what with the statuette’s irregular dotted pattern, wide toothy mouth, and white back stripe potentially signifying the dorsal fin.
Shaman statuette compared to upright whale shark – courtesy of ScholarBlogs
Whale sharks have existed as far back as the Jurassic and Cretaceous eras, 245-65 million years ago, circa when today’s shark groups were blooming into being. Despite their time on earth, whale sharks weren’t known to science until an 1828 catch off South Africa’s beaches. Dr. Andrew Smith formally described the species as the largest shark in the ocean – and he was right. Modernly. Whale sharks, though a popularly-recognized species, are sighted more rarely than advertising and tourist industries hint at. Before the mid-1980s, fewer than 350 confirmed sightings were declared worldwide.
References:
- Weber, Jessica A., Park, Seung Gu, Luria, Victor, et al. “The whale shark genome reveals how genomic and physiological properties scale with body size”. PNAS. 4 August 2020. https://www.pnas.org/doi/10.1073/pnas.1922576117
- “Rhincodon typus”. Florida Museum. https://www.floridamuseum.ufl.edu/discover-fish/species-profiles/rhincodon-typus/
- “Whale Shark Stories & Legends”. Pro Dive International.
- “Whale Shark (Rhincodon typus)”. Australian Government – Department of Climate Change, Energy, the Environment and Water. https://www.dcceew.gov.au/environment/marine/marine-species/sharks/whale-shark#:~:text=The%20whale%20shark%20(Rhincodon%20typus,of%20sharks%20began%20to%20appear.
Whale Shark Snorkeling Regulations
In order to protect these majestic animals and ensure people have the opportunity to see them in their natural habitat, Mexico has enacted several laws. Be certain that the tour company you select abides by these rule for the enjoyment of all and the safety of the animals
- Snorkeling with whale sharks is available from 7 am- 2 pm during whale shark season- generally mid-May to mid-September with peak being the end of July.
- If there are less than 5 whale sharks present- you will not be able to swim, but can observe them from the deck.
- There must be at least 5 whale sharks before 2 people accompanied by a certified guard can enter the water.
- Just 2 people per guide are allowed in the water at a time
- Guests can not dive below the water to observe the whale sharks
- It is strictly banned to touch or chase a whale shark
- A distance of 15 feet must be maintained at all times
- NO SUNSCREEN- including biodegradable- use swim shirt/rash guard shirts for protection
- Life vest, snorkel, mask and fins are mandatory
- Photography permitted- however FLASH photography is banned.
- No single use plastics permitted on board.
Choosing An Operator
- Choose an operator that is properly certified by the Mexican government. Most dedicated tour operators list the whale shark regulations prominently on their webpage- if you have to go looking for that information- you need to find a new operator.
- Only two participants and one guide permitted in the water at a time
- To be eligible to participate in the Whale Shark Tours: Providers, Boats and Guides must all have separate licensing.Guides must have visible at all times their SECTUR permit and must complete courses and be certified for:CPR/First Aid,Tourism Snorkeling Guide Certification,Whale Shark Biology Course,Group Management in Protected and Unprotected Areas
- Boats must not exceed the capacity limitations of 10 passengers per boat
- Boats over 33′ are not permitted to enter the Whale Shark area
- Size of boat- the more people- the longer you will have to wait, and the less opportunity you will have to get a second swim. Each pair generally gets 15 min at a time- so a boat of 10 will be 5 pairs so 1 hr. 15 min for everyone to get a swim.
- Time of arrival at the whale shark area can be a factor. Since one needs 5 whale sharks to swim- arriving to their feeding grounds too early or too late may reduce you ability to swim.
- The price for whale shark snorkeling is set by the government- any operator charging more or less is violating the law.
What To Expect On Your Whale Shark Tour
Be prepared for an early start! Make sure you pack a swim protection shirt, towels (to protect from sun and dry off), hats, sunglasses, shoes, prescription mask (or your own personal mask), reusable water bottle, waterproof camera, and waterproof bag to store your phone, wallet, car keys, etc. Note: if you get sea sick- don’t for get your motion sickness tablets or your sea bands.
After your briefing you will board the boat and receive safety instruction and then it is off to the feeding grounds. It is a long ride out to the feeding grounds- if you are prone to becoming sea sick- keep your head up, and eyes focused out on the horizon.
Once on the grounds, you will see the whale sharks swimming on the surface. Your captain will let you know when it is your turn to enter the “pool”. Allow your guide to maneuver you to the best viewing spots. When finished- exit the water safely and quickly. PRO TIP: Snorkel masks will fog- so to avoid that problem- if the boat offers defog- spray it into your mask, otherwise spit into each lens and rub it around. Gross- true- but you will have clear vision!
After swimming- you might spot some dolphins on your next stop to North Beach where you will laze in the warm waters and enjoy fresh, boat-side made ceviche.
Onward Trip 