Natural Bridges National Monument- (Lake Powell) Review/Blog

This is Utah’s first national park and it is beautiful. The monument is approximately 45 min- 1 hour away from the nearest town (Blanding) so be sure you have adequate gas, packed a picnic meal and lots of water! Upon arrival you will pay your entry fee or use your national park pass – America the Beautiful. Next up is the Visitor Center where you can talk to park rangers about the geology, find out hiking conditions or get a schedule of ranger events. Souvenirs, snacks and water are found here- as well as bathrooms! Natural Bridges is situated around a one way 9 mile paved road- so once you start- it’s onwards you go! The road is great condition so you don’t need to worry about rocks, potholes or anything else. Each bridge has its own parking lot. The overlook for the bridges is generally a 10 min (0.3) mile rock on a paved surface from the parking lot making it accessible for seniors, wheelchairs, and strollers! Each bridge also has its own hiking trial. The easiest bridge to access is Owachomo (the last one) which is 0.5 miles round trip. This is not a paved trail- but one of gravel, rocks, etc. It is rated an easy trail- if you are a seasoned hiker- it will not pose much of a challenge, if not- go slow to avoid injury, but you should have little difficulty in doing the hike. So- after leaving the visitor center- you come into the area of the Sipapu Bridge- the hike to this bridge is rated moderate- strenuous. It involves descending into the canyon (remember- what goes down has to come up)- along with metal ladders, and railing hand holds. The final part of the trail is a steep descent on slickrock. If you are not used to slickrock- it is somewhat daunting and many people opted to call this section their stopping point. The bridge is gorgeous- whether you see it from the overlook, on the trail or at the base. It is in the top 15 of the world’s longest natural bridges- adding a bit of a thrill. The hike takes around 2 hours- again less for seasoned, agile folks. The second stop is the Horse Collar Ruin overlook- and you’ll need binoculars or a camera long lens to be able to see the ruins across the canyon. Yes you can hike to these ruins – check with the park ranger to decide which trail length is best for you in terms of ability, time and what you want to see. Most of these trails will fall into the moderate/strenuous category. The third stop brings you to Kachina Bridge. We did the overlook since we chose to hike Sipapu and Owachomo. The final stop is Owachomo. This hike is relatively easy and brings you down to the base- so you can admire the bridge from a variety of perspectives. It really is something to sit and ponder the processes of rain and wind against the sandstone over millions of years- carving out the bridge- if the walls could talk- the stories they could tell. Some day the forces of erosion might become too much for the bridge to withstand, and it, too, will collapse into the canyon below. That is the marvel and majesty of Natural Bridges.

Valley of the Gods- Utah (Mexican Hat) Blog

The great debate- Monument Valley or Valley of the Gods caused several weeks of debate. Ultimately it came down to itinerary logistics. It was easier to go Mesa Verde- Chaco Canyon- San Juan River and Valley of the Gods- Natural Bridge National Monument. We tried several other versions but in the end it just required more time and the expense of a tour we decided could be better applied to another area. I can’t say that this was a wrong decision. True, we didn’t get to see some of the iconic rock formations, but we spent several pleasant hours enjoying gorgeous rock formations that were impressive. Best of all, we had the entire place (with the exception of a few remote campers) to ourselves. This left plenty of time for exploration, photography and enjoyment.

The park is extremely easy to access from either Bluff, Utah or Mexican Hat, Utah. The road is circular so you just need to enter at one of the entrances and follow the road to the exit. There are turn offs for exploration. The road is not one way so you may need to slide over to let fellow travelers pass you. The road is gravel, rocks and dirt. It is passable in a regular car- we did it in a minivan, but if there has been recent rain- I would advise checking in with local residents to check on its passability. While driving on the road, you will need to use a reduced speed to avoid flying rocks and damage to your suspension/undercarriage as the “road” has sharp dips, turns and protruding rocks. There are no street lights. Cell phone coverage is spotty. As always be certain you are carrying at least 2L/person of water and adequate gas.

One of the highlights of our evening was seeing the grazing cattle and their babies crossing the road. We were able to park and watch them graze along the side of the road. It was quite enjoyable. The cattle against the backdrops of huge rock formations rising in the distance was an unforgettable memory. Valley of the Gods was a great adventure.

Wild Expeditions Blog- Utah (Bluff)

We took the River and Ruins single day adventure from 9:00-3:30 pm. Initially I had been hesitant because of the price- especially when multiplied for a family of 5 adults; however, we had spent the past few days exploring ruins, and I felt it was time for something different. When I first registered I had wanted to do the raft but the booking link only came up for kayaks. We have some experiencing with kayaking on the Concord River, Concord, Massachusetts- so it seemed reasonable to do with 2 double kayaks and a single. The office is easy to locate on the main street in Bluff, Utah. There you will sign consent forms, get fitted for life jackets. Remember to leave all valuables – wallets and other stuff in your car. You will be given a small dry bag to put anything inside that you want to keep dry. The van drives you a short distance to the river entrance where you will meet your guides and get a brief introduction to kayaking. On the day we did the journey- the river was running higher with a stronger current than normal. These conditions were not ideal for beginners-so if you have little to no experience- make sure you understand the river conditions before going off. Because you are paddling downstream very little effort is needed and a swift current will push you ahead of the group as everyone launches. The guides are very good at being in front of you and behind you- so you don’t need to worry about where to go. One thing to know is that the river has rock and tree outcroppings in the center, and along the sides that you must avoid. Capsizing is always a possibility. Approximately half way (4 miles) down the river, you will stop and take a short climb to the Big Kachiinal Panel/ Lower Butler Wash to study the amazing and numerous petroglyphs which will be detailed for you by your Native American guide through story. Plenty of time is given to study the panel, and take photographs. Afterwards it is back on the river for another 4 miles. At this point you will disembark the river portion. Here you will have a nice lunch- with lawn chairs set up for comfort overlooking the river and hills. Lunch is buffet style with sandwiches, salad, chips, fruit and water. The crew will even set up a bucket bathroom for those needing relief. After lunch you board the jeeps for a ride to River House Ruins, remarkably preserved because of its isolation. Here you will learn about the structure, and daily life. You will be able to explore the rooms, kiva , petroglyphs and art- look for the white handprints! The ruin is not large- you will have plenty of time to explore and photograph. Please remember that the ruins are sacred to Native Americans- do not touch or disturb anything on site, do not litter, and keep hands away from petroglyphs and wall art as the oils on your hands can cause destruction. Respect is of utmost importance. Afterward you are back into the 4×4 jeep- we had one with a lower and upper level- for a roller coaster like ride near Comb’s Ridge where the pioneers crossed. Personally, I can’t imagine wagons crossing through all those dips. The jeep eventually arrives at the highway and it is a quick trip back to the store to collect your car. The day was worth every penny. The guides were knowledgeable, friendly, and the cultural experience was simply the best we had on our vacation. The shop provided detailed information on what to bring and to expect at several points before our vacation, returned inquiries either by phone or email promptly. 5 Stars for a great day!

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Bluff Gardens Cabins Blog- Utah (Bluff)

These cabins are a wonderful find- not only is the price right, but they are spacious, and well kept. The front desk staff is very helpful. You can see photos of all the cabins along with a description on their website (https://thebluffgardens.com/). We chose Cabin 7. Each cabin has a parking area near its entrance. The kitchen comes with a full refrigerator, oven, and stove. The bathroom was large and the shower had plenty of hot water. The floors are tiled so it is easy to sweep out the Utah dust from hiking. Out back their are some lawn chairs for relaxing with scenic views and the night sky is fairly bright for stargazing. You are located on the main street- close to the gas stations and various attractions. This is a great gem!

Photo courtesy of Kim Meehan- May 2022

Chaco Culture National Historical Park Blog- New Mexico

Welcome to Chaco Culture National Historical Park! Chaco (for short!) is a wonderful treasure- in a very isolated area of New Mexico. Once you leave the main road, it gets quite interesting. The next 13 miles are a combination of gravel, potholes, sand, and washboard conditions. I would use tremendous caution about using this road in rainy or recent rain conditions. The road cuts through farms and pastures so be alert to cattle. If you run into trouble- finding help is going to be a bit of a challenge. Some rental car companies will not cover damage incurred by “off road” travel so be certain you understand your contract. Do you need a 4 wheel drive? Well, it would be easier, but it is not essential. RV’s or other large vehicles might find they do not have enough space to negotiate potholes and sandy shoulders. While some drivers move quite quickly down the road, the speed for the road really is about 15-35 mph. Hence- a long drive. There is sporadic wifi. The road is marked- just keep following it. Just when you think you can’t take another pothole- the park entrance appears and you can finally get onto a decent road. At the park entry, you will pay your entry fee- the America The Beautiful pass is a good deal if you are visiting more than one park. Online entry can be purchased in advance at Recreation.gov. If you purchase online- be certain you PRINT out your ticket/confirmation as internet may not work. Always check the National Park webpage for up to date payment options.

Once you pay, you will be on a loop road. The first stop is the Visitor Center- which opens later than park entry. Because it is a one way 9 mile loop- working in the Visitor Center can be a bit tricky. This is the ONLY place in the park that you can get water and use flush toilets. Before you make the drive- be certain you pack all meals, snacks, drinks, etc that you will need for the day. There is NOTHING for sale in the park nor on the 13 mile road. There are picnic tables at various parking lots. Outhouse facilities with a stovepipe which minimizes odor are readily available throughout the park. These are clean, supplied with toilet paper and hand sanitizer. The parking lots have ample size so you should have no problem finding a parking spot. When we visited, it was overcast and windy- the wind whipped up sand so hard that it felt like hail pellets. A hat and sunglasses can help reduce this impact- not to mention a hair tie for that long hair.

As you begin your tour- the site guide books that you can pre-purchase at the Western National Park online store (see Chaco page for link). or buy at the Visitor Center are essential. The guides will describe what you are seeing at each of the numbered spots. The first several stops are largely fragments of structures- so it is difficult to get a comprehensive picture about what the Chacoan Great Houses looked like. Much of that mystery is cleared up at the Pueblo Bonito complex. Here you get to see Kivas in wide open spaces and take the steps that lead into the building complex. Here, you can wander around and get a good feeling for how the complex looked. There are windows at second/third stories, doorways, post beam holes for ceilings, and in a far corner there is an actual room. The doorways are quite short- so you may be reduced to stooping or even crawling to get through. In the actual room you can see the original ceiling beams and how the room looked when plastered. Getting lost in the complex is part of the fun. You may find as you explore the ruins, shards of pottery- please remember that these are sacred and leave them as you found them.

The best Kiva is without question is at Casa Rinconada. To get there you need to follow the path past Pueblo de Arroyo. This Kiva is huge. There are two “T” shaped doors directly opposite one another. The guide book will take you through the complex and help you understand how it looked.

While there are several hikes that we had put into our itinerary- they just didn’t work out. We got a bit of a later start than anticipated, were slowed even further by the 13 mile road and with the archeology lovers in our group- moved too slowly through the ruins to get on a trail. (sigh). This is the hard and frustrating part of Chaco- it is so isolated that doing it over 2 days without the ability to camp on site is simply not practical. Unfortunately, traveling from the East coast prevented us from bringing camping gear. In retrospect, we probably should have rented a camper minivan. The drawback to that was our inexperience with camping in general, and no experience with camping in the Southwest. If you do camp, staying for several days allows you to take full advantage of all that Chaco offers- the ruins, trails and night skies. If you only have one day- Chaco is worth the effort. Create an itinerary that works for you- all ruins, all trails or maybe a combo. As always when you are in an isolated area- be prepared! Carry at least 2 liters of water/person, water/drinks in your vehicle, snacks, food, a full gas tank, first aid kit, pocket knife tool set, flashlight, foil blanket and a filtration drinking water straw. Going on a trail- check in with the Park Ranger and get the most up to date information.